The Master Gardener program began in the 1970's in response to the many gardening questions that resulted from the rapidly increasing level of interest in home gardening. The idea was to train knowledgeable gardener volunteers to help University Extension staff deliver home gardening information to the public.

Our local Master Gardeners are able to build on their interests and acquire greater expertise through the resources available through the Extension Service and the University of Missouri.

University of Missouri Extension provides equal opportunity to all participants in extension programs and activities, and for all employees and applicants for employment on the basis of their demonstrated ability and competence without discrimination on the basis of their race, color, religion, sex, sexual orientation, national origin, age, disability or status as a protected veteran.

Hickory County Master Gardeners recommend contacting your local Extension Service for more complete plant and growing information and how to become a Master Gardener.

Meetings are reserved for Master Gardener members, but community programs hosted by the Master Gardeners are public events and will be announced in the local newspaper.

As of 12/31/2014, this blog will no longer post new articles. It will remain active as an archive. Please use the tools available in the right column to search for information and source links provided in previous articles.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: http://extension.missouri.edu/ and http://mg.missouri.edu/.


Guide to Gardeners' Companion

Welcome to our Blog!

For our new viewers, we have a brief guide to help you in locating information within our Blog.

Our Five Topics
Gardeners' Journal:  Research-based gardening information.
Seasonal Tips:  Brief how-to's and when-to's for the garden.
Service Projects:  Our gardens and greenhouse shown with pride.
Gardeners' Bounty:  Special treats from our gardeners to you.
Events Calendar:  Community events and regular meeting announcements.
...Each of our Posts is intended to provide information for the current season.
...As our Blog grows, please use the Search feature and Blog Archive at the Home Page to aid you
in finding information pertinent to your interests. 
...We encourage comments and questions! 
...We will provide answers when able or direct you to a qualified source for your answer! 
September Samplings
Event:  Join us at the Wheatland Harvest Fest September 7-8.
Gardeners' Journal:  Cover Crops to Amend Soil.
Seasonal Tips:  Fall Control Measures for Weeds.
...and more! 
Posted 8/31/2013



Flowering Shrubs Add End of Season Flower Power

Hydrangeas and Hibiscus
Now is the time to survey the garden and start planning for a new additions next spring!


Hydrangea macrophylla

This familiar image of a hydrangea is what many people think of over the years from their childhood. The soft pastel pink or blue flowers are commonly seen in gracing landscapes.  This is the hydrangea that is planted most often.  They are also the hardest to grow successfully.  They are usually done blooming by mid-summer.

In Missouri, we have two highly successful hydrangea to be considered:  Panicle and Oakleaf

Panicle hydrangea (botanically as Hydrangea paniculata)

Panicle hydrangea (Grandiflora commonly referred to as PeeGee)

The panicle hydrangea all flower white and have some variations.  They start out white and may fade to very light shades of pink or lime green, depending on the variety.  Flowering begins mid-July and peak in early August with color lasting well into the fall.  In the hottest, driest part of summer, the flowers are a bright spot.

Pruning is as simple as cutting the plant back to the ground each spring but some varieties will grow 6 to 8 feet if allowed to grow.  They do best in evenly moist soil and will tolerate our heavy clay soils if allowed to drain.  Organic matter in the soil produces the happiest and most vigorous plants.  The panicle hydrangeas are more drought tolerant than other hydrangeas.  They put on their best floral display in either full or almost full sun but can be grown in shady locations which will result in smaller flowers.  It does provide some color when there is little other options for summer blooming in shady areas.

A plant recently growing in popularity is commonly referred to as PeeGee.  The flowers produced are so large and heavy, they can droop.  It can be sold as a standard or as a tree form.  As a small tree, it has rounded to umbrella shape and droops with flowers.

Other varieties of panicle hydrangeas include a great older variety, Tardiva, which is credited with bringing this plant into the gardening mainstream.  Limelight starts out white and turns a bright lime green shade which lasts for months.  Other favorites include Little Lamb and Little Lime which grow best in compact areas topping out at 3 to 5 feet height.  Some varieties attempt to bring more color with shades of very light pink.



Oakleaf Hydrangeas - spring


Oakleaf hydrangeas - summer to fall

Oakleaf hydrangeas - fall

Oakleaf hydrangea (botanically as Hydragea quercifolia) is a tried and true plant that deserves a spot in all area landscapes.  It is one of those rare four season plants that is a spectacular year-round show.  It starts in spring with beautiful white flower clusters that cover the plant and lasts two to four weeks, a long time for flowering shrubs.  As the flower's peak display passes, the faded flowers still have character transforming from pure white to pink hues.

Eventually, the clusters dry to a nice creamy bronze that creates interest for the remaining summer and into fall. The large green, leathery textured leaves are deeply lobed giving them more the look of an oak for the name oakleaf hydrangea.  The leaf color in the fall changes from the deep green to various shades of wine-red to purple and rich burgundy for weeks.  The colors are clear and bold especially with sun back lights.

Another feature of this plant arrives in the winter.  The leaves drop revealing the inner-beauty of young branches.  They are a nice brownish color and as the stems age, the bark begins to exfoliate or peal, developing a rich cinnamon-brown papery appearance that is most showy when snow blankets the ground.

The Oakleaf hydrangea is adaptable but prefers morning sun with light shade in the afternoon.  It will tolerate more sun but will need to be kept evenly moist for best growth.  It will tolerate some shade and still flower.  It can be quite drought tolerant once established but is best with supplemental moisture during dry spells.  If situated correctly in the landscape, little pruning is required.  It flowers on old wood so don't prune until after it blooms.

Some of the varieties include Alice (largest), Snowflake (double blossoms), Snow Queen (more sun tolerant), Sikes Dwarf (less than 4 feet height), Pee Wee ( smallest at 2-3 feet height), Vaughn's Lillie (largest flower head).


In Missouri, we have two highly successful Hibiscus to consider:  Hibiscus syriacus (common name Rose-of-Sharon) and Hibiscus moscheutos.

The tropical sort, the Chinese Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) with glossy leaves and clear, brilliant colors is not hardy and cannot survive winter out of doors here in Missouri.  This what you would see grown indoors and are commonly obtained from a florist shop.  


 Hibiscus syriacus (common name: Rose-of Sharon)


Hibiscus syriacus (common name: Rose-of-Sharon)

Most commonly sold in local landscape nurseries are the woody shrub or small tree labeled hibiscus syriacus.  It is commonly called Rose-of-Sharon.  They are of irregular and varying shapes, bearing smaller blossoms of same colors.

Hibiscus moscheutos


Hibiscus moscheutos

The common bushy plant that grow with pithy stems to heights and widths of 3 to 5 feet are called the hibiscus moscheutos.  They are perfectly tolerant of winter.  Only 20 years ago, they were mainly white, pink, and red-flowered varieties.  Due to the diligence of plant breeders and curious folks who sow natural seeds, many varieties have now appeared.  The flowers can now be found in red, pink, white, purplish, cranberry, and even pale yellow.  No true blues yet.  There are maple-like leaves and those stained with purple, cranberry or variegated colors.

This hardy hibiscus descended, or was improved, from the white to pale pink-flowered Swamp Mallow that is native to wetlands from the deep South to as far north as our Lake Stockton and St. Louis in Missouri.  A popular variant is the Texas Star Hibiscus which can grow as tall as 6 feet, with upright canes topped with star-shaped flowers, mostly in shades of red to pink or white.

There are many choices available if the gardener or property owner wants some additional Flower Power after all the lovely flowers of spring and summer fade away.  Consider these Flowering Shrubs and you will see some end of season color that will extend the prime growing season in our area.



Hibiscus information taken from Grounds for Gardening (August 7, 2013) by John Lower, retired University of Missouri Extension horticulturist.

Hydrangea information taken from Kansas City Star (August 7, 2013) by Dennis Patton, Horticulture Agent Johnson County K-State, Research and Extension.

Posted 8/24/2013















...Artificial Rain...a watering tip for the home gardener

 

The recent rain was very much welcomed, but...just in case we experience another extended dry spell here is a watering tip or two passed along by Gaylord Moore,  MU Extension Horticultural Specialist (retired).


WHEN TO WATER:  MORNING or well before the heat of the day!

HOW MUCH WATER AT ANY ONE WATERING:  AN INCH because this amount will seep more deeply into the soil aiding in establishing a deeper, healthier root system.  Also, the one inch rule allows for fewer times watering.  One inch should be enough, unless the temperature is really, really hot, to allow for watering just one time a week.

HOW TO MEASURE AN INCH:  EMPTY TUNA CAN  set near the outer perimeter of the sprinkler's range.  When the can is full of water, move the sprinkler to another area.  Oh! Don't forget to move the can.  I suppose there are other methods that involve lots of math calculations to determine an inch of water, but me, I like the tuna approach!



Posted 8/24/2013

McCarty Senior Center Landscape and Donation Garden Service Project


McCarty Senior Center Landscape and Donation Garden 
Progress for August




After an unusual large amount of rain for August, the Master Gardeners have been busy with the projects at the McCarty Senior Center.  Landscape and Garden are looking great!  The Greenhouse is empty now and plans are in process for next season's plant order.  If you have not had a chance to see for yourself in person, here are some current photos of what is going on...

The Garden

 Garden view west side

 View of Peppers and Tomatoes

 View of Sweet Potatoes

 Garden and Greenhouse viewed from east

 Garden viewed from Greenhouse

 Master Gardeners reaping what they grow

 Bell Peppers, Tomatoes, and Zucchini Harvested!

 Fresh Produce from garden to kitchen back door



The Landscape

 Gazebo Patio

 Building East Side

Memorial Garden

 Salvia and Grasses

 Cleome (Spider Plant)

 Snapdragons

 Hibiscus

 Cannas, Impatients, Hibiscus

 Lantana

 Salvia, Butterfly Bush, Phlox at corner of new gravel pathways

Sign viewed from Highway 54

 Master Gardeners utilize helpful tools such as this sapling puller.  It was purchased by a member for personal use who highly recommends it for removing those bothersome tree saplings that will not die from cutting or poison.  Especially effective after rains have softened the ground deep.


 If you can get the plant in the gripping jaws close to the ground as possible, leverage works for you very well!

 It gets the whole root!  If it breaks off, it is a good time to poison the broken end of the root.  The tool is made in Canada.  For more information call toll free 1-877-943-3607 or www.pullerbear.com

The Master Gardening Crew at McCarty Senior Center

 Break time (and sometimes lunch) inside the McCarty Senior Center

 Lots of planning, working, and...

 RESTING...under the shady arbor bench between the garden and the greenhouse

Of course, for some, there is always time for quilting!  This amazing quilt will be raffled here where it is displayed at the McCarty Senior Center October 18, 2013.  Come get your tickets for a chance!



Posted 8/16/2013


A Scoop about Healthy Soil!

Successful Organic Gardening Begins With Healthy Soils
In agriculture, the word organic has come to mean "foodstuff grown or raised without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides or hormones."  According to the USDA National Organic Standard Board, organic agriculture:
* is an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles, and soil biological activity;
* is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and on management practices that restore, maintain or enhance ecological harmony;
* has a primary goal of optimizing the health and productivity of interdependent communities of soil life, plants, animals and people.  (MU Guide G6220)

Plantings from home garden, landscape, or row crops may be viewed in late summer to see if desired success was attained.  It may be observed that one area may have had better success than another even with the same or similar planting.  The difference may be due to any number of things including fertilizers used, disease management, weed management, and insect management. Whether the gardener chooses to be organic or conventional, a healthy soil is the first and foremost concern.  

Organic methods may be more desirable for vegetable gardening.  Rather than relying on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, organic gardening is based on making the garden self-sufficient and sustainable.  Other conventional methods may be more desirable for lawns and landscapes and for row crops.  A conventional grower can become certified organic over a three-year transition period. Most home gardeners do not sell produce so they do not have to strictly follow the National Organic Program (NOP), http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/NOP which defines the standards.

A simple way to begin soil sampling is to check whether the soil is acidic, neutral, or alkaline.  A simple and easy at home soil test is provided in the chart below and can be done with simple products most people have on their kitchen shelves.  It is a good place to begin.  More exact testing kits will help if an exact number is desired.  It can be as complicated as you need it to be.  

University of Missouri Extension - Master Naturalist:  Lake of the Ozarks Chapter

In soil, the pH level is important to both the activity of soil microorganisms and the availability of nutrients to the plant.  Generally, pH values between 5.5 and 7.0 provide an ideal balance between microbial activity and nutrient availability.  Many plants grow well in slightly acidic soils with pH values between 6.0 - 7.0.  Some plants, like hollies and azaleas, grow best in more acidic conditions. Other plants prefer more alkaline conditions.

pH levels can be adjusted to desired ranges.  The pH of sandy soils can be changed readily, while silt and clay soils are more resistant to changes in pH.  Agricultural lime is used to raise the pH, making soils more alkaline.  Aluminum sulfate, on the other hand, can be used to lower pH, making soils more acidic.

Other than agricultural lime to increase the pH of acidic soil, wood ash and domite limestone (contains both calcium and magnesium) can be used.  

Other than aluminum sulfate to decrease pH of basic soil, organic plant litter, compost, manure, pine needles, sawdust, and acid peat can be used.

Some good organic sources to append the soil after a soil test reveals deficiencies are:
*nitrogen - blood meal, manures (animal and plant)
*phosphorus - bone meal
*potash - wood ash
~magnesium sulfate (Epsom Salt) allows plant to soak up phosphorous and nitrogen by making key nutrients more effective.

It takes time to adjust soil pH.  Fall is often a good time to apply soil amendments.  Before applying any product, read the label carefully and consult your nursery professional and/or local cooperative extension service for more details.

In general, optimum times to apply fertilizers are as follows:
*Annuals - early spring to mid-summer
*Perennials - winter to mid-summer
*Shrubs - winter to spring
*Lawns - cool season grasses: fall, warm season grasses: spring to early summer
*Trees - winter to early spring
*Vegetables - spring or as needed

The best time to collect soil samples is when the ground is idle and enough time is available to plan fertilizer and lime applications for the next season.  Sampling after harvest in the fall and winter usually works best for spring-seeded crops.  For winter and fall-seeded crops, sampling while the ground is idle in the summer works well.  It is best to wait at least three months after application of phosphorus fertilizer, lime or manure before taking a soil sample.  Sample every three to five years at the same time of the year as your last sample.

For Additional Information, see your local Extension Office for handouts:

The Agricultural MU Guide for Soil Sampling Hayfields and Row Crops is provided in detail in Nutrient Management G9217.  For Organic Vegetable Gardening Techniques, see Horticultural MU Guide Vegetables G6220.  For Lawn Establishment and Renovation see Horticultural MU Guide Lawns G6700.  

The soil samples must be submitted in person to the Hickory County Extension Office located at 203 Cedar Street in Hermitage.  The fee is $15.00 payable in person before the sample can be processed.


Posted 8/3/2013