The Master Gardener program began in the 1970's in response to the many gardening questions that resulted from the rapidly increasing level of interest in home gardening. The idea was to train knowledgeable gardener volunteers to help University Extension staff deliver home gardening information to the public.

Our local Master Gardeners are able to build on their interests and acquire greater expertise through the resources available through the Extension Service and the University of Missouri.

University of Missouri Extension provides equal opportunity to all participants in extension programs and activities, and for all employees and applicants for employment on the basis of their demonstrated ability and competence without discrimination on the basis of their race, color, religion, sex, sexual orientation, national origin, age, disability or status as a protected veteran.

Hickory County Master Gardeners recommend contacting your local Extension Service for more complete plant and growing information and how to become a Master Gardener.

Meetings are reserved for Master Gardener members, but community programs hosted by the Master Gardeners are public events and will be announced in the local newspaper.

As of 12/31/2014, this blog will no longer post new articles. It will remain active as an archive. Please use the tools available in the right column to search for information and source links provided in previous articles.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: http://extension.missouri.edu/ and http://mg.missouri.edu/.


Grow Potatoes in a Can...


     ...But first, how about a few potato facts?  The potato is an annual, cool-season plant belonging to Solanaceae, the Nightshade family.  Yes, very early, it was thought to be poisonous, perhaps even causing fever or leprosy, and was seldom used for human consumption.  The potato was first found in the Andes mountains, imported to Europe and was introduced to America in the 18th century.  Compared with grains, tubers such as the potato are more productive.  In fact, by the end of the 18th century, potatoes had become a dietary staple with routine famine almost disappearing.  Nutritionally, the potato has good value. One medium sized potato (about 1/3 pound) supplies 35% of the U. S. recommended daily allowance of Vitamin C, 6% protein, and 10% iron, as well as other vitamins and minerals such as Folate, Vitamin B6, Potassium, Manganese and Phosphorous, yet only has 100 calories.  The potato, once thought to be poisonous and from an unpromising terrain in the Andes mountains of Peru, is now one of the world's great cultural traditions! 

     ...As a cool-season veggie, the potato may be planted, as the Irish might suggest, around St. Patrick's Day.  The varieties of potatoes are designated as early, mid and late season with early season being planted as soon as the soil is workable in early spring and with late season being able to be planted until about mid-June.  Examples of familiar varieties are Kennebec (mid-late season) and Yukon Gold (early season).
   
 …About that Can...Just dump the trash and use the garbage can to grow potatoes!  Really!  Potatoes can be grown in a 5-gallon size or larger container, but whether new or used, start with a can that is clean, to eliminate possible bacteria or potential harmful residue.  Also, plastic is best because it is water proof and drainage holes can be easily drilled in it.  Potatoes need a soil depth of about 2 feet to grow, so select a can that will accommodate that amount of soil.  After selecting the can, drill several drainage holes in the base and about 1 to 2 inches above the bottom.  Potatoes will rot if left to sit in wet soil, so allow for plenty of drainage.  Situate the can in a sunny location and fill with your preferred garden soil blend (loamy and well-draining).  Potatoes prefer slightly acidic soil but will perform well in almost any soil.  The soil level should be about 5-7 inches from the top.
     ...After selecting the potato starts, press the start about 6 inches into the soil with the eyes facing toward the sun.  Plant only one or two starts per can.  The potato tubers will grow in the soil that lies between the surface and the original potato start, so it's important to mound additional soil on top of the emerging plant.  The soil may be placed around the plant in the 5-7 inches allowed when filling the can with soil.  Leave some of the green leaves above the soil level after mounding.  The tubers should not be exposed to the sun, so additional soil may need to be added.  The soil should be kept moist during warm weather, but not soggy.  After the plant has grown a few inches tall, a 12-12-12 fertilizer may be added. 
     ...Harvest after the plant flowers if you prefer "new" potatoes or after the foliage yellows and dies back for mature potatoes.  For mature potatoes, prepare for storage by curing for a week or two at 65-70 degrees and 85-90% humidity to allow the skin to toughen and wounds to heal.  After curing, store the tubers in complete darkness at about 45 degrees and 90% humidity.  In optimal storage conditions, late varieties may be stored for up to 9 months.
Hickory County Master Gardeners recommend contacting your local Extension Service for more complete plant and growing information.
Sources:  Smithsonian Magazine, November 2011. "The Eyes Have It" by Charles C. Mann.  The Best of Fine Gardening:  Container Gardening 2011. "Potatoes in a Pot" by Brandi Spade.  Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service Guide:  Vegetables. HO-62W. "Potatoes" by B. Rosie Lerner and Michael N. Dana.

Posted: 3/17/2014





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