A Scoop about Healthy Soil!

Successful Organic Gardening Begins With Healthy Soils

In agriculture, the word organic has come to mean "foodstuff grown or raised without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides or hormones."  According to the USDA National Organic Standard Board, organic agriculture:

* is an ecological production management system that promotes and enhances biodiversity, biological cycles, and soil biological activity;

* is based on minimal use of off-farm inputs and on management practices that restore, maintain or enhance ecological harmony;

* has a primary goal of optimizing the health and productivity of interdependent communities of soil life, plants, animals and people.  (MU Guide G6220)

Plantings from home garden, landscape, or row crops may be viewed in late summer to see if desired success was attained.  It may be observed that one area may have had better success than another even with the same or similar planting.  The difference may be due to any number of things including fertilizers used, disease management, weed management, and insect management. Whether the gardener chooses to be organic or conventional, a healthy soil is the first and foremost concern.  

Organic methods may be more desirable for vegetable gardening.  Rather than relying on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, organic gardening is based on making the garden self-sufficient and sustainable.  Other conventional methods may be more desirable for lawns and landscapes and for row crops.  A conventional grower can become certified organic over a three-year transition period. Most home gardeners do not sell produce so they do not have to strictly follow the National Organic Program (NOP), http://www.ams.usda.gov/AMSv1.0/NOP which defines the standards.

A simple way to begin soil sampling is to check whether the soil is acidic, neutral, or alkaline.  A simple and easy at home soil test is provided in the chart below and can be done with simple products most people have on their kitchen shelves.  It is a good place to begin.  More exact testing kits will help if an exact number is desired.  It can be as complicated as you need it to be.  

University of Missouri Extension - Master Naturalist:  Lake of the Ozarks Chapter

In soil, the pH level is important to both the activity of soil microorganisms and the availability of nutrients to the plant.  Generally, pH values between 5.5 and 7.0 provide an ideal balance between microbial activity and nutrient availability.  Many plants grow well in slightly acidic soils with pH values between 6.0 - 7.0.  Some plants, like hollies and azaleas, grow best in more acidic conditions. Other plants prefer more alkaline conditions.

pH levels can be adjusted to desired ranges.  The pH of sandy soils can be changed readily, while silt and clay soils are more resistant to changes in pH.  Agricultural lime is used to raise the pH, making soils more alkaline.  Aluminum sulfate, on the other hand, can be used to lower pH, making soils more acidic.

Other than agricultural lime to increase the pH of acidic soil, wood ash and domite limestone (contains both calcium and magnesium) can be used.  

Other than aluminum sulfate to decrease pH of basic soil, organic plant litter, compost, manure, pine needles, sawdust, and acid peat can be used.

Some good organic sources to append the soil after a soil test reveals deficiencies are:

*nitrogen - blood meal, manures (animal and plant)

*phosphorus - bone meal

*potash - wood ash

~magnesium sulfate (Epsom Salt) allows plant to soak up phosphorous and nitrogen by making key nutrients more effective.

It takes time to adjust soil pH.  Fall is often a good time to apply soil amendments.  Before applying any product, read the label carefully and consult your nursery professional and/or local cooperative extension service for more details.

In general, optimum times to apply fertilizers are as follows:

*Annuals - early spring to mid-summer

*Perennials - winter to mid-summer

*Shrubs - winter to spring

*Lawns - cool season grasses: fall, warm season grasses: spring to early summer

*Trees - winter to early spring

*Vegetables - spring or as needed

The best time to collect soil samples is when the ground is idle and enough time is available to plan fertilizer and lime applications for the next season.  Sampling after harvest in the fall and winter usually works best for spring-seeded crops.  For winter and fall-seeded crops, sampling while the ground is idle in the summer works well.  It is best to wait at least three months after application of phosphorus fertilizer, lime or manure before taking a soil sample.  Sample every three to five years at the same time of the year as your last sample.

For Additional Information, see your local Extension Office for handouts:

The Agricultural MU Guide for Soil Sampling Hayfields and Row Crops is provided in detail in Nutrient Management G9217.  For Organic Vegetable Gardening Techniques, see Horticultural MU Guide Vegetables G6220.  For Lawn Establishment and Renovation see Horticultural MU Guide Lawns G6700.  

The soil samples must be submitted in person to the Hickory County Extension Office located at 203 Cedar Street in Hermitage.  The fee is $15.00 payable in person before the sample can be processed.


Posted 8/3/2013